Hello from Jogyokarta, Indonesia!


It’s been a long way to Indonesia on this rather last-minute trip, but we’re here with a congenial group of travelers, seeing places I knew nothing about.

After three nights in steamy, hot Jakarta, a mix of old (Dutch colonial buildings and outdoor markets) and new (shiny highrises, a haze of air pollution, and a state-of-the-art transportation system), we have moved on to Jogyokarta, a more manageable smaller city (Jakarta has 12 million residents and another 4 million daily commuters) where there are a few more foreign tourists, most probably here to see the famed largest Hindu temple in the world, Borobudur, which we will visit this morning.

On the way here from the airport we stopped alongside the road to visit with a couple harvesting rice, trying our hand at using their threshing machine. I loved being out in the countryside with views of the mountains, which have quite regularly spewed volcanos.

In the evening five of us had a lovely home visit with a family at their home, with a delicious home-cooked meal. The husband was fluent in English and Spanish, as well as several other languages including some Indonesian dialects (there are something like 140) and works in a business exporting teak furniture to Spain. We finished the evening learning to play Twinkle Twinkle Little Star on a set of bamboo instruments, each of us holding a set of bamboo pipes that played a single note.

People have been unbelievably friendly, asking us to pose with them for photos, the children giving us high fives, everyone one smiling, nodding, bowing, welcoming, eager to share, and curious about us.

There is so much more to tell — we gulped when we thought the ATM machine had swallowed our single card — but it finally returned it to us— whew! I had lost my two cards somewhere between the Oakland airport BART station and San Francisco, so we have no backup. I have many photos taken with my camera that i will wait to share when i have time to download and edit them st home.

Why Is Route 66 So Famous?

The front page headlines of this morning’s Albuquerque Journal, “A Very Fun 60s Vibe” caught my eyeThe lead story refers to the re-opening this week of the Imperial Motel on the “Mother Road” in Albuquerque, a renovated 1960s era motel, complete with its classic neon sign and “butterfly roof.” (Apparently it is not yet listed on hotel booking websites.)

A secondary article mentions a Route 66 Visitor Center at the top of Nine-Mile Hill that is being turned over to the City of Albuquerque from Bernalillo County.  I’d never heard of this place, apparently built with pandemic development money and completed in 2023.

I mentioned the newspaper articles to Kent who wanted to know, “Why is Route 66 so famous? Is it the song? or the TV series? Why doesn’t anyone write about Highway 14?” 

Me: “What is Highway 14? What TV series?”

I’d never heard of either Highway 14 or the Route 66 series that ran from 1960-64 and had its own theme song (not the more famous, “Get Your Kicks on Route 66,” written by Bobby Troup in the 1940s” and first recorded by Nat King Cole).

Of course, I didn’t remember these details, but Google sent me to a lengthy Wikipedia article on the well-known song, and a separate article on the TV series.

From there it was a hop to a YouTube video featuring a couple of opening segments from the series with its theme music.

Meanwhile, the unsung Highway 14 that goes through Wyoming will be explored another day.

“I think it’s partly the song and maybe the TV series. It was the main road to California during the Dust Bowl. Let’s ask Jeanne!”

So, I texted our friend Jeanne Whitehouse Peterson, whose late husband David Kammer, did extensive research on the “Mother Road.” Jeanne is also the author of  the children’s picture book illustrated by Kimberly Bulcken Root,  Don’t Forget Winona

I’m already humming:

Well, it winds from Chicago to LA
More than two thousand miles all the way
Get your kicks on Route 66.

Jeanne replied:

David would tell you that:

(1) it’s important as the new highway system was east to west.  Route 66 was meant to arc from the (rust belt) heartland ( Chicago), through the center of the country and on to LA.

(2) Easy then for migrants in Oklahoma to get to the “promised land.”     

(3) Then the books, song and TV show because it became famous.

Steinbeck’s Grapes of Wrath? Wasn’t that set on Route 66?  “Yes,” Jeanne said, “I think he used the term “Mother Road.”

See: https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/infrastructure/back0303.cfm

I’ve found “Route 66” signs in far-flung places, including small towns in France and in a restaurant in Rome. I guess it’s true that “all roads lead to Rome.”

A route 66 sign along the Via Gebennensis in France

After Jeanne published Don’t Forget Winona, I became obsessed with the “Get Your Kicks” song and illegally downloaded at least a dozen versions from the now defunct Limewire and burned them onto a CD, which is now buried somewhere among many CDs (which reminds me, I took my Bose radio/player to a repair shop about 18 months ago, and last I checked about a year ago, it was still waiting for a replacement part).  Wikipedia has an extensive history of the many recorded versions of the song, which will now be bouncing around in my head for the rest of the day (I’ll have to hunt for that CD or maybe I’ll just ask for it on Spotify). 

A quick search of “Route 66” on Amazon brought up at least thirty-two books on the “Mother Road,” and did not include Jeanne Whitehouse Peterson’s Don’t Forget Winona.

Let’s get that keyword in the Amazon description somehow, Jeanne!

Now, maybe it’s time to take a ride or a walk on old Route 66 through Albuquerque.

Return to Tucson

I think it’s been thirteen years since I’ve returned to Tucson to visit friends I made there in the 1970s and friends I’ve met since. So, this week, we made a whirlwind trip, driving about seven hours each way to spend two and a half days in Tucson. We weren’t able to see everyone, and I forgot to take pictures of some, but I remembered how much I loved the Sonoran Desert, even though the city has grown immensely in fifty years. 

I’d hoped for warm weather, but cold rain from California swept in putting snow on the mountains, which made the desert even more beautiful. It was wonderful to connect with those we did see, including Kent’s son Jake and his friend Hayley. Mary Lyday and I had so much to talk about, we forgot to take pictures.

Finally, here’s a push for Kent’s book and a wish for a Happy Valentine’s Day! I realized that We Ran Away to Sea is also a love story! Treasure those you love. We’re not here forever.

So far behind…

I’ve taken a look at my blog for the first time in a very long time. The past six months have been dominated by working on the JacanaPress.com blog featuring my husband Kent’s book. If you look there, you’ll find glimpses of what we’ve been up to, including six intense weeks of travel through Scandinavia in December.

“Why go in the winter?” I’ve been asked. Here is my reply:

Scandinavia is where my ancestors lived 150 years ago and for centuries before that.

Why in winter?  I had a checklist: (1) I wanted a challenge and a bit of an adventure, (2) I wanted to avoid crowds and the high prices of the summer season, (3) I wanted to see the aurora borealis, (4)  winter and snow bring back memories of my Upper Michigan childhood, (5) snow is beautiful, (6) I wanted to celebrate Christmas with relatives in Sweden and enjoy the Christmas lights and festivities, (7) our grandchildren were going to be elsewhere.

I loved the Polar Night when the day was four of five hours of twilight with the sun lurking below the horizon. I missed the sun, though, and on Santa Lucia Day, December 13, we crossed the Arctic Circle again heading south. I waited with anticipation aboard the ship (Hurtigruten’s Polarlys) for the sun to hit a high peak. My heart leaped up when I saw the first pink light hit the triangular peak I’d been watching. ”Thank you, God, thank you, Sun, for being there!” I was deeply moved. The Polar Night was beautiful, but what if I never saw the sun again?

We arrived home after our travels to face a pile of mail we still haven’t quite gotten through, repairs of things falling apart in the house (I think it missed us), preparing Kent’s lecture, “Escape to Sea: Dreams and Realities” for Oasis (it was well-received), and all the other busy activities that keep us from taking much-needed long walks.

From the Arctic (Update from email sent on December 8, 2023, so you don’t have to click on the link to view)

http://eepurl.com/iFJzzEEmail sent from Jacana Press from the Arctic December 8, 2023



The Polar Night
W

We crossed the Arctic Circle at 8:05 am, entering the Polar Night.  Kent and Pam never got here in Jacana or Coot, but we took the opportunity to celebrate We Ran Away to Sea.  The polar mark was lit up as we passed.
We told one of our dining partners about the book, and she whipped out her phone and ordered a copy on the spot!   We hope some of you will do the same!


Yesterday’s polar night was more like sunrise and sunset compressed into a few hours, with no actual day in between.  As a photographer it was like having the blue hour for two or three hours, not just 20 minutes.
In a few hours we will tie up in Tromsø, the gateway to the polar regions. We’ll be in this darkness and semi-dark for several more days.  I’m glad we’re not sailing in Coot!  My fingers would be too cold to write!











Svolvaer.  It’s definitely polar night.


Polarnight daytime, l’heure bleue.

Another short video:  Christmas on a sailboat is different. In 1994, Pam and Kent celebrated at Exuma National Park in the Bahamas. Read about it on page 126 (Chapter 12 Going Foreign) in We Ran Away to Sea. Sail with Pam and Kent on  YouTube, Instagram and TikTok!

We need more reviews!  Please share your thoughts about the book if you liked it (and even if you didn’t). Every review helps. It doesn’t have to more than a heading and a few words.


We Ran Away to Sea is now available at The Treasure House, Organic Books, Books on the Bosque, Bookworks, and Page One in Albuquerque. NM; The Travel Bug and Collected Works in Santa Fe, NM; Calamity Books and Sheridan Stationery and Books in Sheridan, WY; Two Dog Market in Leadville, Colorado; and at Books by the Bay in Sausalito, CA, as well as on Amazon in both paperback and ebook.Upcoming Event: Kent will be presenting at Oasis in Albuquerque on January 19, 10:30-12, 2024. If you’d like him to give a presentation somewhere near you, please let us know. Have book, will travel!

Can Reading Help Us Save the World?

Elder Activist Readers (EAR): re-written August 10, 2023

Who are we?

We are a small group who began reading books on climate change and the environment in the fall of 2020, spurred by Esther Jantzen (author of Walk: Jamie Bacon’s Secret Mission on the Camino de Santiago) who introduced us to All We Can Save, the first book we all read together. Over the past couple of years, we have read many books, all of which have shaped my perceptions and stirred me to action, although what I’ve done is very little. I am still a long way from living a simple life. However, I’ve gone from ignoring climate change and thinking, “What can I do?” to realizing that learning about the issues and doing what I can is at least a start. We have read of many instances when one person’s actions have inspired others, often resulting in making an important difference. This summer’s heat and the disasters including forest fires (even in Hawaii!), flooding, failed crops, and the deaths of humans and animals have driven home the importance of changing our ways..

This morning we drove around Denver, that jewel of the Rockies, from south to north, facing bumper-to-bumper traffic and slow-downs in all directions. The mountains with remains of the winter’s snow were hazy in the distance. Where there was once farmland or grazing land where the buffalo roamed were now acres of new houses. As we poked along in halting traffic, our vehicle also contributed to the pollution, congestion and wasteful use of fossil fuels. I thought, “Look what progress has brought!” We were trapped in an unpleasant, unhealthy, unsustainable environment created in the past one-hundred years by our love for and reliance on the automobile. I’m as guilty as anyone. I love my car and my comfortable life, and I’m taking a non-essential trip for pleasure in my air-conditioned car, while people are lying on sidewalks, dying in the heat. That’s not fair, is it?

There are currently five of us who read one book every two or three months and meet via Zoom to discuss our reading. We also send each other links to articles, websites, books, films, speakers, and petitions to sign. We choose the books together and take turns leading the discussions. We have had other readers participate occasionally, and we welcome new readers, or I urge you to form your own reading group. All We Can Save, includes suggestions and guidelines

We five are all retired teachers who have lived in other countries. We include former Peace Corps volunteers, a Vista worker, and three pilgrims who have walked the Camino de Santiago more than once. Esther divides her time between Albuquerque and Mérida in Mexico when she is not traveling elsewhere; Marty Corley, Kent Kedl (author of We Ran Away to Sea, which was inspired partly by his Peace Corps experiences and Small is Beautiful), and I all live in Albuquerque. Anne Roberts faithfully joins us from her home in Longboat Key, Florida. Our current book is U.S. Poet Laureate Joy Harjo’s Poet Warrier: A Memoir which we will discuss on August 16.

Have any of you read books that you’d like to recommend? Books that have changed your life or your thinking?

Complete book list in order of reading:

Ayana Elizabeth Johnson and Katharine K. Wilkerson (eds). All We Can Save: Truth, Courage, and Solutions for the Climate Crisis, 2020 (read Jan 2021)

Shalanda H. Baker. Revolutionary Power: An Activist’s Guide to the Energy Transition, 2021 (read Mar-Apr 2021)

Arlie Hochschild. Strangers in Their Own Land: Anger and Mourning on the American Right, 2016 (read June 2021)

Kate Haworth. Doughnut Economics: Seven Ways to Think Like a 21st Century Economist, pub 2017 (read Jul/Aug 2021)

Lydia Millet. A Children’s Bible (a novel), 2020 (read Jan 2022)

Paul Hawken. Regeneration: Ending the Climate Crisis in One Generation, 2021 (read Feb/Mar 2022)

Kristen Olsen. The Soil Will Save Us, 2014 (read Apr/May 2022)

Robin Wall Kimmerer. Braiding Sweetgrass, 2013 (read June 2022)

Plus, we watched: Kiss the Ground (video)

 Imbolo Mbue. How Beautiful We Were: A Novel, 2021 (read August 2022)

Vanessa Machado de Oliveira. Hospicing Modernity Facing Humanity’s Wrongs and the Implications for Social Activism, 2021. (read September-October 2022)

E. F. Schumacher. Small is Beautiful: A Study of Economics As If People Mattered, 1973 (read December 2022)

Amitai Ghosh. The Nutmeg’s Curse: Parables for a Plant in Crisis, 2021 (read March 2023)

Sarah Augustine: The Land is Not Empty: Following Jesus in Dismantling the Doctrine of Discover, 2021 (read June 2023

Joy Harjo. Poet Warrior: A Memoir, 2021 (reading August 2023)

We Ran Away to Sea

May 12, 2023

It was a big day today. We got the book loaded onto IngramSpark and ordered the first paperback copy that should arrive in about a week. Publication date is set for June 27, but that could change. A PDF of the book has also been loaded onto NetGalley, so we are hoping for some reviews. We are still finding some typos and small errors (oh no!) and expect to find even more when we actually hold the paperback in our hands. It’s been a long journey so far, and there’s even more to come.

We know we didn’t choose the cover most of you preferred. We’ll see how it goes! But we have the photo of Kent and Pam on the back, if that will make you happier.

We’d love to have more reviewers, although we’re not supposed to use friends and family. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I looked for reviews of a particular book (I won’t divulge the title) this afternoon and saw it had one review of ***** (five stars). The reviewer’s name: the same as that of the author!

I can see we still have a lot to learn!

If you’re interested in reviewing let us know, and if that sounds too daunting, here are a few links to websites that provide some easy guidelines and even templates for writing reviews:

https://reedsy.com/discovery/blog/how-to-write-a-book-reviewhttps://share.reedsy.com/fiction_book_review_template_reedsy.pdfhttps://share.reedsy.com/nonfiction_book_review_template_reedsy.pdf

Day Nine on the Camino Mozárabe, Almería to Mérida, 30 March 2023

Sierra Nevadas from near the highest point on the Camino Mozárabe above Quentar near Granada, Spain.

Where are the other days? Some are on Facebook. Most nights I’ve been too tired to write. I’ll try to catch up soon., although writing on an iPhone 13 mini is not all that easy.

Another beautiful day on the Camino Mozárabe. On this Thursday 30 March we climbed to the highest point on this Camino, over 1400 meters. total walk about 8.4 miles. We started with a short big up, then a very long smooth down and gentle long climb to the top. Along the way we were buzzed by a helicopter. At the very top we walked through a surreal, blindingly white quarry. The downside, literally and figuratively was a seemingly endless rough, steep, stony track down in the blazing sun on a western slope. My hands look like rotisserie chickens, they are so brown. As we turned onto the highway about a km above the village,our friend Montserrat and Francis passed in a taxi and stopped in the middle of the highway to pick us up. What a coincidence, and much appreciated respite. A short time later we enjoyed a hearty lunch—our first actual meal of the day at the Los Angeles Bar/Cafe in Quentar ( population about 900) as a group of six pilgrims. We were just steps from our hotel, but too busy eating, drinking and chatting and too tired to take pictures, alas. We were Montserrat and Francis from Barcelona, Edgard from Belgium, and Garis from Victoria, Australia. Tomorrow Granada! all of us are in the Hotel Quentar, spanking clean with an elevator to the second (third) floor, where Kent and I have a comfy room with —-a bathtub! What a treat for aching legs and feet. I fell asleep shortly I got out with a little help from Kent!

Off We Go!

Sierra Nevada near Granada, Spain painting by John Singer Sargent

We leave for Spain today to walk our first Camino since 2019.

It’s been hard getting ready this time. We feel so much older, and technology seems to thwart us at every turn. We’re walking the less-traveled Camino Mozárabe from Alméria to Granada, Córdoba, and Mérida. We know we will not walk every step of the way, but we look forward to experiencing the stillness of remote places and the rituals of Semana Santa in Granada, Córdoba, and a few small villages in between.

I feel as uncertain, fearful, and unprepared as I did when I set out on my first Camino thirteen years ago. Maybe it is the usual pre-trip jitters, but getting ready has been unusually difficult. It is partly because we are leaving Kent’s book, We Ran Away to Sea, which has occupied us for most of the pandemic, still in progress. We anticipate publication on June 2, 2023. If anyone would like to send us a pre-publication review, even brief, let us know. We’ll send you a PDF review copy. Wish us Buen Camino!

Remembering Zachary

A life cut short

Zachary, the bright, sweet blue-eyed blond child who was my daughter’s best friend when they were both three years old, died suddenly last Thursday at the age of thirty-nine. He left a wife and much-loved young daughter and outlived an infant son. During his golden childhood, we were all charmed by his intelligence, creativity, and outgoing personality. He became a highly regarded firefighter. One of his first jobs was rescuing people during the horrifying aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. After several years, post-traumatic stress syndrome, exacerbated by the loss of his infant son, sidelined him. He subsequently earned a degree in business and became a successful manager, but Zak’s heart was not in the business world. His final success came as a stand-up comic who was becoming well-known. His associates, stunned by his death, praised his many abilities and kindness. He was everyone’s best friend.

When Zak and Psyche were three, his mother, Susan, and I decided to take the two on a week-long trip to Hawaii. We must have been slightly nuts, but despite some wild moments, it was a fabulous holiday. The two children laughed, talked nonsense, and sang nonstop (when they didn’t fall asleep) in their side-by-side car seats while Susan and I took turns driving and finding our way around Oahu. The kids didn’t squabble, and we two moms got along pretty well, too, despite having different travel styles. Susan always laughed that she packed snacks of Chips Ahoy cookies, Lifesavers, and chocolates, while I carried bags of carrot and celery sticks.

  We were undoubtedly somewhat distracted as we walked through Waikiki when suddenly, both children disappeared. We discovered Psyche streaking off to explore something that caught her interest and Zachary talking to people. Their behavior reflected their personalities: Psyche, the explorer, and Zak, the conversationalist and a people person.

When the audience was invited to join hula dancers on a stage, Zachary ran up, wearing his bright red lava lava and lei, dragging his mother along. His theatrical inclinations were already evident. Psyche, on the other hand, was too shy to dance, so I didn’t get to hula. Eventually, on our last evening in Honolulu, Zak prevailed upon her to dance with him on the outdoor stage in the moonlight at the elegant Halekulani Hotel. Afterward, they both said, “Now we’re married.”

When Zak and Psyche were four, our family left to live in Australia for a year. Unfortunately, in those pre-vaccination days, Psyche came down with chicken pox just before we left. We separated her from almost everyone who gathered in the park across from our house for a goodbye picnic. But Zak insisted he would still love Psyche and wanted to see her, even if she had spots on her face and he might come down with chicken pox himself, but when he saw her, he said, “Euuw!” and didn’t get closer.

Psyche and Zak as creative three-year-olds

Zachary and Psyche stayed in touch intermittently during their busy adult lives in far-flung locations. Although we don’t see each other often, Susan and I have remained close, sharing our concerns about our children and grandchildren and the losses and joys in our lives. Now we are joined in the grief of a life cut short.