Chaumot, May 5, 2025 Camping L’Ardan 26,000 steps 9-11 miles

Today started out well with bright blue skies, fluffy clouds, and ups and downs through picturesque tiny clusters of houses.  It was perfect weather for walking.  

Saying goodbye at the lovely L’Esprit du Chemin this morning.
Gorgeous clouds

We took a break on the steps of a roadside cross. Alain came along as we were sitting there and took our picture.

We were dragging a bit by the time walked into Corbigny, the biggest town we’d been in since Paris. We anticipated restaurants and shops but although there was some activity we were disappointed. Lots of shops were closed, some because it was Monday, but some seemed permanently closed.  We found a little restaurant, Cafe Didine, open, with a choice of chicken or tuna. We both chose chicken, but then were informed there was only one serving left, so I let Kent have the chicken and I ate tuna in a yellow sauce.

By the time we finished lunch the sky had grown gray and the wind picked up. We found 2 ATM machine and got more Euros, so we were relieved about that. 

Dark sky and wind picking up behind crucifix
Bridge over the Nivernsi
Canal

I felt quite refreshed after lunch, but Kent was lagging.  We walked the old road to Chitry le Mines, birthplace of writer Jules Renard, whose work I don’t know. There was a plaque about his birthplace and a series of sites relating to him. 

Monument to Jules Reynard

I enjoyed walking the abandoned old road, rocky and  high above the new one where I could see cars whizzing by.  I imagined what it would be like to bounce over those rocks in an old car.  I decided I like neglected old places going back to the wild.

At the edge of town we crossed the Nivernais Canal, with many houseboats, but I guess we will not be walking along it.  

Toilets and showers are a bit of a walk away and pretty much open air. Our little cabin has just two single beds, a shelf, a window in the door and a towel rack heater—so not quite the cozy bungalow I’d envisioned.  I suspect if it was about 20 degrees warmer, I’d feel differently and enjoy sitting.outside.

Temp is 54 F, but with wind it is said to feel like 46.  We did have an OK dinner with Alain in the little bar here. Tomorrow we’ll be in a municipal gîte in Saint Révérien, a 16k walk with no shops or bars along the way and a small grocery near the gîte.  I hope it’s a pretty walk.

Blowing buttercups song the way

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