Loving Naples

Saturday and Sunday, April 13-14

Panorama from Naples

Our Air BnB on Via Monte di Dio is small, but nicely appointed, has a fabulous view from its one window, and is perched on the edge of a cliff in a fascinating old neighborhood of narrow alleys between five-story buildings hung with laundry and layered with tiny shops and restaurants. The entry to our flat is through an over-grown garden, populated by friendly cats, and tonight as we entered at twilight, a singing bird. Could it have been a nightingale singing at twilight?

Last night we explored in the rain and got terribly lost, but discovered just below us a posh pedestrian shopping street and the magnificent Piazza Plebescito with a semicircular colonnade centering on the Pantheon-inspired circular church of San Francesco di Paola. Across from the church is the Palazzo Reale, which adjoins the Teatro San Carlo where we will see Madama Butterfly on Tuesday evening.

Finally back in our own neighborhood, we bought bread, cheese, butter, olives, and wine at a small grocery, and after taking them home returned to a small trattoria where we had a simple, satisfying dinner of pasta.

After a late start this morning, fortified by toast, jam, and cheese, we set out for the Archeological Museum, joining strolling families, many carrying palm fronds from Palm Sunday services. The museum, with a special exhibit on Canova and his inspiration by classical art and sculpture, as well mosaics and many other items unearthed from Pompeii and Herculaneum, occupied us for the rest of the afternoon. We finished with a look at the waterfront and a dinner of pizza at a small restaurant in our neighborhood.

Tomorrow we hope to get to both Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Basílica di San Francesco di Paola
I am enjoying the glorious Galleria Umberto I
Psyche and Cupid—Canova
Alexander the Great detail from Mosaic
Evening at the waterfront
Sunset from our window on Monte di Dio

Rome, April 12 Friday

We arrived in Rome a bit late on Thursday night, flying low over brilliant green fields and scattered farms and villages. By the time we reached the Termini (central railway station) via the Leonardo Express, it was dark and raining. It would have been a perfect occasion for a taxi, but 75 to 100 people stood in the taxi queue.

So putting on our rain jackets we set out with the printed map I’d downloaded from Google. I had also noted all the street names and turns and written them in my little notebook, not so useful since street signs were rare. Nevertheless, we found our way without mishap until we walked right past the door of Veneto Relais, which we found upon turning back (no lighted sign outside). We pushed open a garage door, and then another that took us up 6 flights of stairs. We saw an elevator door, but it was locked, so wearing our backpacks we trudged ever upward, hoping that somewhere up above we’d find a human to let us in.

We had written in advance that we would probably be later than their 8 pm closing, and we were nearly an hour past that. But, Francisco was waiting for us. Hurrah! He showed us around, gave us door codes and an electronic key. Had we only paid more attention, we would have discovered the elevator was operable from 1 floor up.

After a lovely dinner at Fuocolento, a cozy place we’d passed on the street, Kent promptly fell asleep, while I washed some clothes and spent 10 minutes trying to turn on the fancy shower that had rainbow hues of lights playing overhead, a whole row of square sprayers on the wall, a hand sprayer, and an overhead rain shower, plus two metal squares that were obviously supposed to do something. Turning them did nothing, and they did not push or pull, but finally I was able to push in the bottom of one — and voila! There was water! The other square, logically enough, rotated to direct the water up, down, and to one side. So at last all was well, except for the very slippery floor, which, fortunately, led to no mishaps.

We woke to a glorious, sunny morning after last night’s rain, and we had a wonderful walk to the Piazza Del Popolo, first stopping at Santa Maria della Victoria where I was thrilled to finally see in person the Bernini statue of St Teresa in Ecstasy that I’d first encountered as an undergraduate in an art history course. We then made our way to fountains on four corners, the Spanish steps and the Piazza del Popolo, a grand space with fountains, churches, and young opera singers performing for tips.

We had a very brief look at Santa Maria Del Popolo before being shooed out at the 12:30 closing. Heading back along the pedestrian Via Corso, we detoured around the mausoleum of Augustus Caesar, which is undergoing restoration, took a look at the Tiber. Then we got lost trying to find the Trevi Fountain. Once we did find it, we didn’t linger as the piazza was jammed with people. Plus, we didn’t have any coins left to throw, as we had given them to the opera singers. We promptly got lost, again, despite having 2 maps, and ended up taking quite a long walk, before we arrived at the four fountains once again. From there then knew the way back to the hotel.

The neighborhood surrounding the hotel has interesting restaurants, a cheese shop, and a gelato shop. We found a busy “stand up and eat” pizza shop Pinsere Pizza that was doing brisk business,. A shared small pizza would tide us over until dinner time Our hotel room is low down in the building, so I’m not getting internet in the room. We are also at the bottom of a deep courtyard, so there is not much light. I suspect paying a bit more for a better room would have been worthwhile.

After Kent napped and I worked on pictures, we headed out to see St. Mary Major Church. By then sunshine had turned to rain, and we found the church not only closed, but barricaded and guarded by soldiers. Open at 7 am they told us.

In 1991, Ed and I and the two children had visited Santa Maria Maggiore on Palm Sunday, encountering a parade of Red-robed Cardinals en route, which is probably why the church is being guarded this weekend. It was just an accident that we had been there that morning, having just gotten off an overnight train from Munich, and headed toward the Coliseum. However, Ed had recognized the important church, and we made a quick visit. There were no lines or bag and body searches in those pre 9/11 days.

Thwarted by our attempt to get into Maria Maggiore, Kent and I searched for another nearby church, which we didn’t find. However, we did find San Antonio, a Russian Catholic Church, where a mass was in progress. There were only a few people, but there was an amazing male choir singing liturgical chants that reverberated in the light, bright, icon-covered space. Doors and curtains were opened and closed between the altar and the pews before and after the Eucharist. After the Eucharist people lined up to kiss a silver cross held by a priest garbed in maroon and gold robes. Some also kissed an icon that held a prominent place at the front of the main aisle. It was mysterious and beautiful. I didn’t dare join the queue as I had no idea what was happening.


A New Beginning: Next Walk Italy

I am transitioning from the old Caminobleu.blogspot.com to WordPress, beause I could no longer easily publish from my phone or iPad while traveling. It will take awhile to learn to use this new platform. My next walk will be in Italy from the village of Teano to Rome along the Via Francigena with the Gruppo dei dodici. Both the new blog and the walk will be steps into the unknown.

For a video I made of this walk